Chef Philippe Delacourcelle knows his cassia bark from his cinnamon, thanks to a long stint in Asia. He opened this sharp bistro (with purple-gray walls and photos of jazz musicians) in 2003 to showcase his unique culinary style, rejuvenating archetypal French dishes with Asian and Mediterranean spices. His bargain prix-fixe-only menu changes constantly, but crisp salt cod with cassia bark and supersmooth smoked potato purée is a winner, as is an unlikely dessert of roasted figs with olives. Ask for advice in selecting one of the wines from small producers. Métro: Maubert-Mutualité.