Can't get a reservation at the spectacular restaurant in the Maison de Baccarat? You're not alone; a table here is so in demand that at this writing you had to wait two months for a table. Its success stems not only from the stunning decor by Philippe Starck -- mirrors, patches of exposed brick wall, and a black chandelier -- but also from the work of chef Thierry Burlot. Burlot often plays with textures, as in a dish of hot bouillon poured over jellied oysters. Want to avoid the waitlist? Make a reservation for breakfast (weekdays 8:30-10), which is far easier than getting a table for lunch or dinner, or come for tea (Sat. 3-5.30), as reservations aren't taken. Reservations essential.