A few years after opening, L'Astrance is still drawing breathless praise. What's all the fuss about? Well, this split-level gray dining room is probably the best place in town to part with your hard-earned euros for a special-occasion meal: you get the quality of haute cuisine without the pomposity or the crushing price tag, though the evening prix-fixe menus have gone up to EUR85 and EUR105 (the lunch menu remains accessible at EUR35). The menu changes constantly, but you'll always find the signature dish, the avocado-and-crab filamelle (a sort of mille-feuille). More recent inventions are the sole with parsley jus, herring roe and oysters, pigeon sautéed with paprika and cocoa, and for dessert, the deceptively plain-sounding feuilleté crème vanille. The only catch: you'll need to reserve six weeks ahead for dinner and three weeks in advance for lunch. Reservations essential. Métro: Passy.