In fall 2004 Hiramatsu left its Seine-side perch on the Ile St-Louis for this spacious Art Deco dining room with just 40 seats, 32 of them for nonsmokers (an audacious move in Paris, but there's a bar/salon reserved for fumeurs). Chef Hajime Nakagawa continues his variations on the nuanced Japanese-inspired cuisine of the namesake Hiroyuki Hiramatsu. Luxury ingredients feature prominently in dishes such as a duck foie-gras medallion in a truffle emulsion on a truffle shaving, all wrapped in a curly cabbage leaf, or Breton lobster with a caramelized hazelnut cream. For dessert, classic tarte Tatin (a caramelized apple tart) comes with a dill-scented exotic fruit coulis and Earl Grey sorbet. There is no way to get out of this restaurant cheaply, so save it for a special occasion, when you might be tempted to order the seasonal menu for EUR95 or the tasting menu for EUR130. Reservations essential. Métro: Pont Marie.