Flora Mikula made her name at Les Olivades, a Provençal bistro in the 7, before joining a gaggle of ambitious restaurateurs in this platinum-card neck of the woods. Moving away from the bistro register, she's turning out refined food with southern twists in a setting that feels just a little too staid, despite the ornate plaster moldings. Standout dishes on the frequently changing seasonal menu are a scallop tarte fine with truffle vinaigrette, roast sea bass with a potato-olive purée, and a roasted-apple mille-feuille with salted-caramel ice cream. Service, like the food, is impeccable. Reservations essential. Métro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.