La Pagode -- where else but in Paris would you find movies screened in an antique pagoda? A Far East fantasy, this structure was built in 1896 for the wife of the owner of the Au Bon Marché department store. By the 1970s it had become a cinema slated for demolition, but was then saved by a grass-roots wave of support spearheaded by director Louis Malle. (At this writing, some restoration work was in progress, due to finish in late 2005.) Though the fare is standard, the surroundings are enchanting -- who can resist seeing a flick in the silk-and-gilt Salle Japonaise? Come early to have tea in the bamboo-fringed garden (summer only). Métro: St-François Xavier.