Le Tambour is full of old-fashioned flea-market charm. The owner has one of those quintessentially Parisian mustaches, there is an old métro map on the wall, and advertising signs from yesteryear catch the eye. Come for the traditional French fare of onion soup, foie gras, steak tartare, and confit de canard. It's open from 6 PM to 6:30 AM. Métro: Étienne Marcel, Les Halles.