Au Lapin Agile considers itself the doyen of cabarets and is a miraculous survivor from the 19th century. Founded in 1860, it still inhabits a modest house, once a favorite subject of painter Maurice Utrillo. At one point owned by Aristide Bruant (immortalized in many Toulouse-Lautrec posters), it became the home away from home for Braque, Modigliani, Apollinaire, and Maurice Vlaminck. The most famous habitué, however, was Picasso, who once paid for a meal with one of his paintings, then promptly went out and painted another, which he named after this place -- today, after being purchased for nearly $50 million, it hangs in New York's Metropolitan Museum. Happily, this glamour hasn't entirely affected the Nimble Rabbit -- prices are lower than elsewhere, as it is more of a large bar than a full-blown cabaret. If you want to commune with the spirit of the past (and any visiting ghosts), the best time to come is during the early-morning hours. Métro: Lamarck Caulaincourt.