A car is a must in Orange County. Despite what you've heard, traffic is not always a major problem, especially if you avoid rush hours (7-9 AM and 3-7 PM). Seat belts must be worn by all passengers at all times.

The Orange County Transportation Authority (OCTA) (PHONE: 714/636-7433, www.octa.net) will take you virtually anywhere in the county, but it will take time; OCTA buses go from Knott's Berry Farm and Disneyland to Huntington Beach and Newport Beach. Bus 1 travels along the coast; there is also an express bus to Los Angeles.

Highways 55 and 91 head west to the ocean and east into the mountains. Take Highway 91 to Garden Grove and inland points (Buena Park, Anaheim). Highway 55 leads to Newport Beach. Pacific Coast Highway (Highway 1) allows easy access to beach communities and is the most scenic route.

Car Rentals

Rates begin at $29 a day and $125 a week, plus 8.25% sales tax. Luxury and sport utility vehicles start at $49 a day. Note that the major agencies offer services for travelers with disabilities, such as hand-controls, for little or no extra cost.

Local Agencies

Beverly Hills Rent-A-Car (9220 S. Sepulveda Blvd., near LAX, PHONE: 800/479-5996, www.bhrentacar.com).

Enterprise (PHONE: 800/736-8222, www.enterprise.com).

Midway Car Rental (PHONE: 888/682-0166, www.midwaycarrental.com).

Rent A Wreck (PHONE: 800/535-1391, www.rent-a-wreck.com).

Town Rent A Car (13815 Crenshaw, PHONE: 310/973-6815 or 323/934-4780).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; where it's affiliated with Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 09/256-8690 in New Zealand; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Requirements

In California you must be 21 and have a valid credit card, often with $200-$300 available credit on it (regardless of how you'll ultimately pay), to rent a car; rates may be higher if you're under 25.

Road Conditions

Beware of weekday rush-hour traffic, which is heaviest from 7 AM to 10 AM and 3 PM to 7 PM. Both KFWB and KNX have frequent traffic reports. To encourage car-pooling, some crowded freeways reserve an express lane for cars carrying more than one passenger. Parallel streets can often provide viable alternatives to jam-packed freeways, notably Sepulveda Boulevard for I-405; Venice and Washington Boulevards for I-10 from Mid-Wilshire west to the beach; and Ventura Boulevard, Moorpark Street, and/or Riverside Drive for U.S.-101 through the San Fernando Valley. Highway signage is on the whole good, but can't substitute for maps and detailed directions.

Additional traffic information is available from:

The California Highway Patrol (PHONE: 323/906-3434 road conditions; 800/427-7623), which has a road conditions line.

The City of Los Angeles Web site (www.ci.la.ca.us) traffic map.

Parking

Parking rules are strictly enforced; illegally parked cars are ticketed and/or towed very quickly (and the minimum ticket is $35). Parking is generally available in garages or parking lots; some public lots are free all or part of the day; otherwise prices per half hour vary from 25¢ (in the public lots) to $2, or a few dollars to $25 per day. Downtown and Century City garage rates may be as high as $25 an hour, though prices tend to drop on weekends. Many restaurants offer valet parking for $3-$5 or an optional tip. Metered parking is also widely available; meter rates vary from 25¢ for 15 minutes in the most heavily trafficked areas to 25¢ for one hour; have lots of change available. In some areas, metered parking is free on weekends or on Sundays. Another bonus: if a meter is out of order (for example, if it is flashing the word "FAIL" where the time remaining would appear), parking is free for the posted time limit.

Street parking is confusing because of the many and varying restrictions (during the day, only at night, once a week during street-cleaning hours, etc.). When visiting residential areas, be sure to ask your hosts about parking restrictions since signs aren't always easy to find. If you have to park in a restricted space for even the briefest amount of time, put on your emergency blinkers.

Rules of the Road

The use of seatbelts for all passengers is required in California, as is the use of car seats for children under age six or who weigh less than 60 pounds. The speed limit on city streets is 25-35 mph, and 65 mph on freeways unless otherwise posted. Turning right on a red light after a complete stop is legal unless otherwise posted. Many streets in downtown L.A. are one-way, and a left turn from one one-way street onto another is legal on a red light after a complete stop. On some major arteries, left turns are illegal during one or both rush hours (watch for signs). Certain "car pool" lanes, designated by signage and a white diamond are reserved for cars with more than one passenger.

Speeding can earn you a fine of up to $500. Blood alcohol content of.08% or above (01% if you're under 21) is illegal; the cost of driving while intoxicated can be a $390-$1,000 fine plus 48 hours to six months in jail for first offenders. The police are not easy-going about traffic offenses in general. Parking infractions can result in penalties starting at $30 tickets on up to the vehicle being towed and impounded (at an ultimate cost of nearly $200 even if you act immediately, and more if you don't). In California, radar detectors aren't illegal, but "scanners" (which receive police radio signals) are.

Area drivers generally exhibit a high standard of road courtesy, sometimes buttressed by law, regarding pedestrians, maintaining lanes, merging lanes, etc. This cuts both ways: they'll extend it to you and expect it from you.

Metrolink (PHONE: 800/371-5465, www.metrolinktrains.com) is a weekday commuter train that runs between Los Angeles and Orange County, starting as far south as Oceanside and stopping in Laguna Niguel, Tustin, San Juan Capistrano, San Clemente, Irvine, Santa Ana, Orange, Anaheim, and Fullerton.

In most cases (liquor stores being a notable exception), shops can set their own hours. Most open between 8 AM and 10 AM and shut between 6 PM and 7 PM; many open on weekends, too. Banks operate weekdays from 9 AM until 2 PM or 3 PM, and some are also open on Saturday morning. Post offices are open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM and Saturday morning.

Arriving in the United States

Non-U.S. residents ages 21 and older may import into the United States 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 2 kilograms of tobacco, 1 litre of alcohol, and gifts worth $100. Meat products, seeds, plants, and fruits are prohibited.

For additional information, contact the U.S. Customs Service (for inquiries, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229, www.customs.gov, PHONE: 202/354-1000; for complaints, Customer Satisfaction Unit, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Room 5.5A, Washington, DC 20229; for registration of equipment, Office of Passenger Programs, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Room 5.4D, Washington, DC 20229, PHONE: 202/927-0530).

The U.S. electrical standard is 110 volts/60 cycles AC. Foreign visitors traveling with dual-voltage appliances will not need a converter, but they will need a plug adapter. The standard U.S. electrical outlet takes a plug of two flat pins set parallel to one another.

Australia

Australian Embassy (1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036, PHONE: 202/797-3000, FAX: 202/797-3040).

Canada

Canadian Embassy (501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001, PHONE: 202/682-1740, FAX: 202/682-7726).

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy (37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008, PHONE: 202/328-4800, FAX: 202/667-5227).

United Kingdom

British Embassy (3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008, PHONE: 202/588-7800, FAX: 202/588-7850).

Ambulance (PHONE: 911).

Fire (PHONE: 911).

Police (PHONE: 911).

For lesser problems on California's freeways (out of gas, blown tire, need a tow to the nearest phone), the Freeway Service Patrol (FSP; PHONE: 213/897-0333 6:30 AM-7 PM), has been instituted by Caltrans (California's Department of Transportation), the California Highway Patrol, and local transportation authorities. You can call them yourself if you have a cell phone, but chances are good the FSP will spot you first. If your car breaks down on an interstate, try to pull over onto the shoulder of the road and either wait for the state police to find you or, if you have other passengers who can wait in the car, walk to the nearest emergency roadside phone, and call the state police. If you carry a cellular or car telephone, *55 is the emergency number to call. When calling for help, note your location according to the small green mileage markers posted along the highway. Other highways are also patrolled but may not have emergency phones or mileage markers.

Pacific Coast Gray Line Tours (PHONE: 714/978-8855, www.pacificcoastgrayline.com) provides guided tours from Orange County hotels to Universal Studios Hollywood, Los Angeles/Hollywood, Six Flags Magic Mountain, the San Diego Zoo, SeaWorld, Catalina Island, and the Long Beach Aquarium.

Every address in the United States belongs to a specific zip-code district, and each zip code has five digits. Some addresses include a second sequence of four numbers following the first five numbers, but although this speeds mail delivery for large organizations, it is not necessary to use it. Each zip-code district has at least one post office, where you can buy stamps and aerograms, send parcels, or conduct other postal business.

Occasionally you may find small stamp-dispensing machines in airports, train stations, bus terminals, large office buildings, hotel lobbies, pharmacys, or grocery stores, but don't count on it. Most Americans go to the post office to buy their stamps, and the lines can be long.

Official mailboxes are either the stout, royal blue steel bins on city sidewalks or mail chutes on the walls of post offices or in large office buildings. A schedule posted on mailboxes and mail slots should indicate when the mail is picked up.

Sending Mail Home

First-class letters (one ounce or less) sent within the United States cost 37 cents; postcards are 23 cents. A one-ounce letter to Canada or Mexico takes a 60-cent stamp and a postcard 50 cents. Letters sent airmail to all other overseas destinations cost 80 cents for one ounce or less (this rate category is now called airmail letter-post, and surface mail is now called economy letter-post); airmail postcards to other overseas destinations cost 70 cents. For 70 cents, you can also buy an aerogram -- a pre-stamped sheet of lightweight blue paper that folds into its own envelope.

Receiving Mail

If you wish to receive mail while traveling in the United States, have it sent c/o General Delivery at the city's main post office (be sure to use the right zip code). It will be held there for up to 30 days. You must pick it up in person, and bring identification with you. American Express offices in the United States do not hold mail.

ATMs

Automated teller machines are widely available, not just in banks but at many grocery stores, shopping centers, petrol stations, and amusement parks, as well. There may be an extra fee for their use at locations other than your own banking chain.

Currency

The basic unit of U.S. currency is the dollar, which is subdivided into 100 cents. Coins are the copper penny (1 cent) and four silver coins: the nickel (5 cents), the dime (10 cents), the quarter (25 cents), and the half-dollar (50 cents). Silver $1 coins and "golden" dollar coins (the latter introduced in 2000) are rarely seen in circulation. Paper money comes in denominations of $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100. All these bills are the same size and green in color; they are distinguishable only by the dollar amount indicated on them and by pictures of various famous American people and monuments.

For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. Although fees charged for ATM transactions may be higher abroad than at home, Cirrus and Plus exchange rates are excellent, because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores, although you may find their hours more convenient. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get a bit of local currency before you leave home.

In general, U.S. banks will not cash a personal check for you unless you have an account at that bank (it doesn't have to be at that branch). Only in major cities are large bank branches equipped to exchange foreign currencies. Therefore, it's best to rely on credit cards, cash machines, and traveler's checks to handle expenses while you're traveling.

Exchanging Money

In the United States, it is not as easy to find places to exchange currency as it is in European cities. In major international cities, such as New York and Los Angeles, currency may be exchanged at some bank branches, as well as at currency-exchange booths in airports and at foreign-currency offices such as American Express Travel Service and Thomas Cook (check local directories for addresses and phone numbers). The best strategy is to buy traveler's checks in U.S. dollars before you come to the United States; although the rates may not be as good abroad, the time saved by not having to search constantly for exchange facilities far outweighs any financial loss.

Money Orders, Funds Transfers

Any U.S. bank is equipped to accept transfers of funds from foreign banks. It helps if you can plan dates to pick up money at specific bank branches. Your home bank can supply you with a list of its correspondent banks in the United States.

If you have more time, and you have a U.S. address where you can receive mail, you can have someone send you a certified check, which you can cash at any bank, or a postal money order (for as much as $700, obtained for a fee of up to 85¢ at any U.S. post office and redeemable at any other post office). From overseas, you can have someone go to a bank to send you an international money order (also called a bank draft), which will cost a $15-$20 commission plus airmail postage. Always bring two valid pieces of identification, preferably with photos, to claim your money.

Taxes

The sales tax in Orange County is 7.75%. There's no tax on most groceries, but there is on newspapers (unless bought from a coin operated machine) and magazines. The tax on hotel rooms is 13%-15%.

Tipping

The customary tip rate is 15%-20% for waiters and taxi drivers, and 10%-15% for hairdressers and barbers. Bellhops and airport baggage handlers receive $1-$2 per bag; parking valets are usually tipped $1-$2. Hotel maids should generally receive $1-$3 per day of the stay. In upscale establishments, they should receive at least 4% of the room rate before taxes, unless the hotel charges a service fee that includes gratuity. In restaurants, a handy trick is doubling the tax.

Entering the United States

Visitor visas are not necessary for Canadian citizens, or for citizens of Australia and the United Kingdom who are staying fewer than 90 days. A valid passport, a return-trip ticket, and proof of financial solvency are required; you'll be asked to fill out the Visa Waiver Form, I-94W, upon entry. Travelers who plan to stay more than 90 days can apply for the appropriate visa at the United States embassy or consulates in their home country. Canadian citizens need valid identification but neither a passport nor a visa to enter the United States.

At Home

If you live in the U.K.:

U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (PHONE: 09068/200-290 recorded visa information; 09055/444-546 operator service; both with per-minute charges) for U.S. visa information.

U.S. Embassy Visa Branch (5 Upper Grosvenor Sq., London W1A 2JB) for U.S. visa information; send a self-addressed, stamped envelope.

Contact the U.S. Consulate General (Queen's House, 14 Queen St., Belfast, Northern Ireland BT1 6EQ, PHONE: 028/9032-8239, www.usembassy.org.uk) if you live in Northern Ireland.

Contact the United States Consulate General (MLC Centre, 19-29 Martin Pl., 59th floor, Sydney, New South Wales 2000, PHONE: 02/9373-9200; 1902/941-641 fee-based visa-inquiry line, www.usis-australia.gov/index.html) if you live in Australia.

If you live in New Zealand:

Embassy of the United States (29 Fitzherbert Terr., Thorndon, Wellington, PHONE: 04/462-6000 usembassy.org.nz).

U.S. Consulate General (Citibank Bldg., 3rd floor, 23 Customs St. E, Auckland, PHONE: 09/303-2724, usembassy.org.nz).

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.dfat.gov.au/passports).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.ukpa.gov.uk) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

The country code for the United States is 1. The area codes for Anaheim and Orange County are 714, 949, and 562.

All U.S. telephone numbers consist of 10 digits -- the three-digit area code, followed by a seven-digit local number. If you're calling a number from another area-code region, dial "1" then all 10 digits. If you're calling from a distance but within the same area code, dial "1" then the last seven digits. For calls within the same local calling area, just dial the seven-digit number. A map of U.S. area codes is printed in the front of most local telephone directories.

Four special prefixes, "800," "888," "877," and "900," are not area codes but indicators of particular kinds of service. "800," "888," and "877" numbers can be dialed free from anywhere in the country -- usually they are prepaid commercial lines that make it easier for consumers to obtain information, products, or services. The "900" numbers charge you for making the call and generally offer some kind of entertainment, such as horoscope readings, sports scores, or sexually suggestive conversations. These services can be very expensive, so know what you're getting into before you dial a "900" number.

Directory & Operator Information

For assistance from an operator, dial "0". To get a local or national telephone number, dial 411; in a few places it is necessary to dial 555-1212. If you want to charge a long-distance call to the person you're calling, call collect by dialing "0" instead of "1" before the 10-digit number, and an operator will come on the line to assist you (the party you're calling, however, has the right to refuse the call).

International Calls

International calls can be direct-dialed from most phones; dial 011, followed by the country code and then the local number (the front pages of many local telephone directories include a list of overseas country codes). To have an operator assist you, dial "0" and ask for the overseas operator. The country code for Australia is 61; New Zealand, 64; and the United Kingdom, 44. To reach Canada, dial 1 + area code + number.

Long-Distance Calls

Competitive long-distance carriers make calling within the United States relatively convenient and let you avoid hotel surcharges. By dialing an 800 number, you can get connected to the long-distance company of your choice.

For details, contact AT&T (PHONE: 800/225-5288), MCI (PHONE: 800/888-8000), or Sprint ( PHONE: 800/366-2255).

Public Phones

The most common pay phone in operation today is the coin-operated type. To use one, pick up the receiver, deposit your money (35-50¢ in southern California for local calls), wait for a steady tone before dialing, and then dial the number. An automated message will alert you to deposit more money, if needed.

Telephone-card phones, so popular elsewhere in the world, are becoming increasingly common. Grocery stores, newsstands, and other establishments sell the disposable phone cards, available in varying amounts from $5 and up. To activate the card, dial the code number and follow the instructions printed on the card.

Contacts

Anaheim-Orange County Visitor and Convention Bureau (Anaheim Convention Center, 800 W. Katella Ave., Anaheim, CA, 92802, USA. PHONE: 714/765-8888, www.anaheimoc.org). Buena Park Convention and Visitors Office (6601 Beach Blvd., Buena Park, CA, 90621, USA. PHONE: 800/541-3953, www.buenapark.com). Costa Mesa Conference and Visitors Bureau. Mailing address: Box 5071, Costa Mesa, CA, 92628, USA. PHONE: 714/384-0493 or 800/399-5499, www.costamesa-ca.com. Huntington Beach Conference and Visitors Bureau (301 Main St., Ste. 208, Huntington Beach, CA, 92648, USA. PHONE: 714/969-3492, www.hbvisit.com). Laguna Beach Visitors Bureau (252 Broadway, Laguna Beach, CA, 92651, USA. PHONE: 949/376-0511 or 800/877-1115, www.lagunabeachinfo.org). Newport Beach Conference and Visitors Bureau (3300 West Coast Hwy., Newport Beach, CA, 92663, USA. PHONE: 800/942-6278, www.newportbeach-cvb.com). San Juan Capistrano Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Center (31781 Camino Capistrano, Suite 306, San Juan Capistrano, CA, 92693, USA. PHONE: 949/493-4700, www.sanjuanchamber.com).