When it comes to getting around New York, you'll have your pick of transportation in almost every neighborhood. The subway and bus networks are thorough, although getting across town can take some extra maneuvering. If you're not pressed for time, take a public bus; they generally are slower than subways, but you can also see the city as you travel. Subway and bus fares are $2, although reduced fares are available for senior citizens and people with disabilities during nonrush hours.

Yellow cabs are abundant, except at the rush hour of 4:30-5 PM, when many are off-duty (shift change time). Like a taxi ride, the subway is a true New York City experience and often the quickest way to get around.

But New York is really a walking town, and depending on the time of day and your destination, hoofing it could be the easiest and most enjoyable option. During weekday rush hours (from 7:30 AM to 9:30 AM and 5 PM to 7 PM, avoid the jammed midtown area, both in the subways and on the streets -- travel time on buses and taxis can easily double.

Avenues in Manhattan run north to south and streets run east to west. To locate the cross street that corresponds to a numerical avenue address, or to find the avenue closest to a numerical street address, check the phone book's "Address Locator." This handy chart provides relatively simple calculations for finding Manhattan addresses.

The Staten Island Ferry (PHONE: 718/390-5253 or 718/815-2628) runs across New York Harbor between Whitehall Street in lower Manhattan and St. George terminal in Staten Island. The 25-minute ride is free and from it you can get a wonderful view of the Financial District skyscrapers and the Statue of Liberty.

New York Water Taxi (NYWT, PHONE: 212/742-1969, www.newyorkwatertaxi.com), in addition to serving commuters, shuttles tourists to the city's many waterfront attractions between the West Side, lower Manhattan, the South Street Seaport, and Brooklyn's waterfront parks. The hop-on, hop-off ticket (good for 24 hours) for adults is $15 and includes a one-day pass for public transportation.

NY Waterway (PHONE: 212/564-8846 or 800/533-3779, www.nywaterway.com) is primarily a commuter service but also has sightseeing cruises. Its Yankee Clipper and Mets Express ferries take passengers from Manhattan and New Jersey to Yankee Stadium and Shea Stadium for $14 round-trip. Its service between the World Financial Center on the Hudson River to Pier 11 on Wall Street is free. NY Waterway also travels to Hoboken, New Jersey, from three Manhattan piers.

Most city buses follow easy-to-understand routes along the Manhattan street grid. Routes go up or down the north-south avenues, or east and west on the major two-way crosstown streets: 96th, 86th, 79th, 72nd, 57th, 42nd, 34th, 23rd, and 14th. Most bus routes operate 24 hours, but service is infrequent late at night. Traffic jams can make rides maddeningly slow. Certain bus routes provide "Limited-Stop Service" during weekday rush hours, which saves travel time by stopping only at major cross streets and transfer points. A sign posted at the front of the bus indicates it has limited service; ask the driver whether the bus stops near where you want to go before boarding.

To find a bus stop, look for a light-blue sign (green for a limited bus) on a green pole; bus numbers and routes are listed, with the stop's name underneath.

Fares & Schedules

Bus fare is the same as subway fare: $2. Pay your bus fare when you board, with exact change in coins (no pennies, and no change is given) or with a MetroCard.

MetroCards allow you one free transfer between buses or from bus to subway; when using a token or cash, you can ask the driver for a free transfer coupon, good for one change to an intersecting route. Legal transfer points are listed on the back of the slip. Transfers generally have time limits of two hours. You cannot use the transfer to enter the subway system.

Route maps and schedules are posted at many bus stops in Manhattan and at major stops throughout the other boroughs. Each of the five boroughs of New York has a separate bus map; they are available from some station booths, but rarely on buses. The best places to obtain them are the MTA booth in the Times Square Visitors Center, or the information kiosks in Grand Central Terminal and Penn Station.

Additional bus information is available from:

Metropolitan Transit Authority (MTA) Travel Information Center (PHONE: 718/330-1234, www.mta.nyc.ny.us).

MTA Status Information Hot Line (PHONE: 718/243-7777), updated hourly.

You do not need a car during your stay in New York City. If you drive into Manhattan, you are best advised to put the car in a garage for the duration of your stay. Driving within Manhattan can be a nightmare of gridlocked streets, predatory motorists, and seemingly suicidal jaywalkers. Narrow and one-way streets are common, particularly downtown, and can make driving even more difficult. The most congested streets of the city lie between 14th and 59th streets and 3rd and 8th avenues.

Car Rentals

Rates in New York City begin at around $70 a day and $350 a week for an economy car with air-conditioning, automatic transmission, and unlimited mileage. This does not include tax on car rentals, which is 13.25%. Rental costs are lower just outside New York City, specifically in places like Hoboken, New Jersey, and Yonkers, New York. The Yellow Pages are also filled with a profusion of local car-rental agencies, some renting secondhand vehicles. If you're traveling during a holiday period, make sure that a confirmed reservation guarantees you a car.

In New York

Autorent (PHONE: 212/315-1555, www.autorentonline.com).

New York Rent-A-Car (PHONE: 212/799-1100 or 800/697-2227, www. nyrac.com).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633; 020/8759-6200 in the United Kingdom, www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand, www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom, www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 020/8897-0811 in the United Kingdom; 02/9223-1444 in Australia, www.dollar.com).

Enterprise (PHONE: 800/325-8007, www.enterprise.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia, www.hertz.com).

National (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom, www.nationalcar.com).

Petrol

Fill up your tank when you have a chance -- petrol stations are few and far between. If you can, fill up at stations outside of the city, where prices are anywhere from 10¢ to 50¢ cheaper per gallon. The average price of a gallon of regular unleaded gas is $1. 60, although prices can vary from station to station. In Manhattan, you can refuel at stations along the West Side Highway and 11th Avenue south of West 57th Street and along East Houston Street. Some petrol stations in New York require you to pump your own gas; others provide attendants. In New Jersey, the law states an attendant must pump your gas.

Insurance

When driving a rented car you are generally responsible for any damage to or loss of the vehicle. You also may be liable for any property damage or personal injury that you may cause while driving. Before you rent, see what coverage you already have under the terms of your personal auto-insurance policy and credit cards.

Parking

Free parking is difficult to find in midtown, and violators may be towed away litreally within minutes. All over town, parking lots charge exorbitant rates -- as much as $15 for two hours. If you do drive, try not to use your car much for traveling within Manhattan. Instead, park it in a guarded parking garage for at least several hours; the sting of hourly rates lessens somewhat if a car is left for a significant amount of time. If you find a spot on the street, be sure to check parking signs carefully, as rules differ from block to block.

Requirements

In New York you must be 18 to rent a car. Some agencies in Manhattan require a minimum age of 25. When picking up a car, non-U.S. residents will need a reservation voucher for any prepaid reservations that were made in the traveler's home country, a passport, a driver's license, and a travel policy that covers each driver.

Road Conditions

New York City streets are in generally good condition, although there are enough potholes and bad patch jobs to make driving a little rough at times, such as on Canal Street. Road and bridge repair seems to go on constantly, so you may encounter the occasional detour or a bottleneck where a three-lane street narrows to one lane. Heavy rains can cause street flooding in some areas, most notoriously on the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Drive (known as the FDR and sometimes as the East River Drive), where the heavy traffic can grind to a halt when lakes suddenly appear on the road. Traffic can be very heavy anywhere in the city at any time, made worse by the bad habits -- double-parking, sudden lane changes, etc. -- of some drivers. Drivers don't slow down for yellow lights here -- they speed up to make it through the intersection.

Rules of the Road

On city streets the speed limit is 30 mi per hour, unless otherwise posted. There's no right turn on red allowed within the city limits. Be alert for one-way streets and "no left turn" intersections. There's a ban on single-occupancy vehicles coming into Manhattan between 6 AM and 10 AM on weekdays (except holidays) via the Brooklyn Bridge, Manhattan Bridge, Williamsburg Bridge, Brooklyn Battery Tunnel, and Holland Tunnel.

The law requires that front-seat passengers wear seat belts at all times. Children under 16 must wear seat belts in both the front and back seats. Always strap children under age five into approved child-safety seats. It is illegal to use a handheld cell phone while driving in New York State. Police will immediately seize the car of any DWI (driving while intoxicated) offenders in New York City.

You can rent a chauffeur-driven car from one of many limousine services. Companies usually charge by the hour or a flat fee for sightseeing excursions.

Limousine Services

All State Car and Limousine Service (PHONE: 212/741-7440).

Bermuda Limousine International (PHONE: 212/249-8400).

Carey Limousines (PHONE: 212/599-1122).

Chris Limousines (PHONE: 718/356-3232 or 800/542-1584).

Concord Limousines, Inc. (PHONE: 212/230-1600 or 800/255-7255, www.concordlimo.com).

Gotham Limousine (PHONE: 212/868-4733 or 800/385-1033).

London Towncars (PHONE: 212/988-9700 or 800/221-4009, www.londontowncars.com).

Mirage Limousine (PHONE: 212/744-9700).

The 714-mi subway system operates 24 hours a day and serves most of the places you'll want to visit. It's cheaper than a cab, and during the workweek it is often faster than either taxis or buses. The trains are clean and well lighted, and air-conditioned cars predominate on every line. Still, the New York subway is not problem-free. Many trains are crowded, and the older ones are noisy. Homeless people sometimes take refuge from the elements by riding the trains, and panhandlers abound. Although trains usually run frequently, especially during rush hours, you never know when some incident somewhere on the line may stall traffic.

Most subway entrances are at street corners and are marked by lampposts with an illuminated Metropolitan Transit Authority (MTA) logo or globe-shape green or red lights -- green means open and red means closed (though colors don't always correspond to reality). Subway lines are designated by numbers and letters, such as the 3 line or the A line. Some lines run "express" and skip stops, and others are "locals" and make all stops. Each station entrance has a sign indicating the lines that run through the station. Some entrances are also marked "uptown only" or "downtown only." Before entering subway stations, read the signs carefully. One of the most frequent mistakes visitors make is taking the train in the wrong direction. Maps of the full subway system are posted in every train car and usually on the subway platform (though these are sometimes out-of-date). You can usually pick up free maps at station booths.

The collapse of the World Trade Center damaged the subway lines 1, 9, 2, and 3, which have readjusted their routes. As a result of ongoing repairs to the Manhattan Bridge, train lines that used to travel over it have new routes and there are new lines replacing them as well. For the most up-to-date information, call the MTA's Travel Information Center or visit their Web site, www.mta.nyc.ny.us. Alternatively, ask a station agent.

Metropolitan Transit Authority (MTA) Travel Information Center (PHONE: 718/330-1234, www.mta.nyc.ny.us).

MTA Lost Property Office (PHONE: 212/712-4500).

MTA Status information hot line (PHONE: 718/243-7777), updated hourly.

Fares & Transfers

Subway fare is the same as bus fare: $2. You can transfer between subway lines an unlimited number of times at any of the numerous stations where lines intersect. If you use a MetroCard to pay your fare, you can also transfer to intersecting MTA bus routes for free. Transfers generally have time limits of two hours.

If you plan to use the subway often, your best option is to use a MetroCard, a plastic card with a magnetic strip, which you can swipe through the reader at the turnstile and the cost of the fare is automatically deducted. You can transfer free from bus to subway or subway to bus with the MetroCard. You must start with the MetroCard and use it again within two hours to complete your trip.

MetroCards are sold at all subway stations and at some stores -- look for an "Authorized Sales Agent" sign. The MTA sells two kinds of MetroCards: unlimited-ride and pay-per-ride. Seven-day unlimited-ride MetroCards allow bus and subway travel for a week. If you will ride more than 12 times, this is the card to get. The one-day unlimited-ride Fun Pass is good from the day of purchase through 3 AM the following day and is only sold by neighborhood MetroCard merchants and MetroCard vending machines at stations (not through the station agent). When you purchase a pay-per-ride card worth $10, you get 6 rides for the price of 5. The advantage of pay-per-ride over unlimited ride is that the card can be shared between riders; unlimited-ride MetroCards can only be used once at the same station or bus route in an 18-minute period.

You can buy or add money to a MetroCard at a MetroCard vending machine. They are available at most subway station entrances (usually near the station booth). Major credit cards, ATM/debit cards, or cash may all be used.

Paying

Pay your subway fare at the turnstile, using a MetroCard that you can purchase at the station booth or from a vending machine.

Smoking

Smoking is not allowed on New York City subways or in subway stations.

There are several differences between taxis (cabs) and car services, or livery cabs: a taxi is yellow and a car-service sedan is not. In addition, taxis run on a meter, while car services charge a flat fee. And by law, car services are not allowed to pick up passengers unless you call for one first.

Taxis can be extremely difficult (if not impossible) to find in Brooklyn, Queens, Bronx, and Staten Island. As a result, you may have no choice but to call a car service. Always determine the fee beforehand when using a car service sedan; a 10%-15% tip is customary above that.

Yellow cabs are in abundance almost everywhere in Manhattan, cruising the streets looking for fares. They are usually easy to hail on the street or from a taxi rank in front of major hotels, though finding one at rush hour or in the rain can take some time. Even if you're stuck in a downpour or at the airport, do not accept a ride from a gypsy cab. If a cab is not yellow and does not have an aqua-color plastic medallion riveted to the hood, you could be putting yourself in danger by getting into the car.

You can see if a taxi is available by checking its rooftop light; if the center panel is lit and the side panels are dark, the driver is ready to take passengers. Taxi fares cost $2 for the first 1/5 mi, 30¢ for each 1/5 mi thereafter, and 20¢ for each minute not in motion. A 50¢ surcharge is added to rides begun between 8 PM and 6 AM. There is no charge for extra passengers, but you must pay any bridge or tunnel tolls incurred during your trip (sometimes a driver will personally pay a toll to keep moving quickly, but that amount will be added to the fare when the ride is over). Taxi drivers expect a 15% to 20% tip.

To avoid unhappy taxi experiences, try to know where you want to go and how to get there before you hail a cab. A few cab drivers are dishonest, and not all know the city as well as they should. Direct your cab driver by the cross streets of your destination (for instance, "5th Avenue and 42nd Street"), rather than the numerical address, which means little to many drivers. Also, speak simply and clearly to make sure the driver has heard you correctly -- this will save you time, money, and aggravation. A quick pre-call to your destination will give you cross-street information, as will a quick glance at a map marked with address numbers. You can also find the cross street of many Manhattan addresses using the conversion chart found in the front section of the Yellow Pages.

Car Services

Carmel (PHONE: 212/666-6666).

Highbridge Car Service (PHONE: 212/927-4600).

Tel-Aviv (PHONE: 212/777-7777).

The cheapest, sometimes the fastest, and usually the most interesting way to explore this city is by walking. Because New Yorkers by and large live in apartments rather than in houses, and travel by cab, bus, or subway rather than by private car, they end up walking quite a lot. As a result, street life is a vital part of the local culture. On crowded sidewalks, people gossip, snack, browse, cement business deals, make romantic rendezvous, encounter long-lost friends, and fly into irrational quarrels with strangers. It's a wonderfully democratic hubbub.

A typical New Yorker walks quickly and focuses intently on dodging cars, buses, bicycle messengers, construction sites, and other pedestrians. Although this might make natives seem hurried and rude, they will often come to the aid of a lost pedestrian, so don't hesitate to ask a passerby for directions.

New York is very much a 24-hour city. Its subways and buses run around the clock, and plenty of services are available at all hours and on all days of the week.

Banks & Offices

Banks are open weekdays 9 AM-3 PM or 9 AM-3:30 PM, and some have late hours one day a week or are open Saturday morning.

Museums & Sights

Museum hours vary greatly, but most of the major ones are open Tuesday-Sunday and keep later hours on Tuesday or Thursday evening.

Pharmacies

Pharmacies are generally open early in the morning and remain open until at least 6 PM or 7 PM. Most chain pharmacys, such as Duane Reade, CVS, and Rite-Aid, have a number of locations that keep late hours or are open 24 hours.

Shops

Stores are generally open Monday-Saturday from 10 AM to 6 PM or 7 PM, but neighborhood peculiarities do exist and many retailers remain open until 8 PM or even later. Sunday hours are common in most areas of the city. Many stores on the Lower East Side and in the Diamond District on West 47th Street close on Friday afternoon and all day Saturday for the Jewish Sabbath, but some are open Sunday.

Arriving in the United States

Non-U.S. residents ages 21 and older may import into the United States 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 2 kilograms of tobacco, 1 litre of alcohol, and gifts worth $100. Meat products, seeds, plants, and fruits are prohibited.

For additional information, contact the U.S. Customs Service (1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20229, USA. PHONE: 202/354-1000, www.customs.gov, Customer Satisfaction Unit, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Room 5.5A. Office of Passenger Programs, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Room 5.4D, PHONE: 202/927-0530).

The U.S. electrical standard is 110 volts/60 cycles AC. Foreign visitors traveling with dual-voltage appliances will not need a converter, but they will need a plug adapter. The standard U.S. electrical outlet takes a plug of two flat pins set parallel to one another.

Australia

Australian Consulate General (150 E. 42nd St., 34th floor, between Lexington and 3rd., Midtown East, New York, NY, 10017, USA. PHONE: 212/351-6500, FAX: 212/351-6501, www.australianyc.org).

Australian Embassy (1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20036, USA. PHONE: 202/797-3000, FAX: 202/797-3040).

Canada

Canadian Consulate General (1251 Ave. of the Americas, between W. 49th and W. 50th Sts., Midtown West, New York, NY, 10020, USA. PHONE: 212/596-1628, FAX: 212/596-1793, www.canada-ny.org).

Canadian Embassy (501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20001, USA. PHONE: 202/682-1740, FAX: 202/682-7726).

New Zealand

New Zealand Consulate-General (780 3rd Ave., Suite 1904, between E. 48th and E. 49th Sts., Midtown East, New York, NY, 10017, USA. PHONE: 212/832-4038, FAX: 212/832-7602, www.un.int/newzealand).

New Zealand Embassy (37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC, 20008, USA. PHONE: 202/328-4800, FAX: 202/667-5227).

United Kingdom

British Consulate-General (845 3rd Ave., between E. 51st and E. 52nd Sts., Midtown East, New York, NY, 10022, USA. PHONE: 212/745-0200, FAX: 212/745-3062, www.britainusa.com/ny).

British Embassy (3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20008, USA. PHONE: 202/588-7800, FAX: 202/588-7850).

Ambulance (PHONE: 911).

Fire (PHONE: 911).

Police (PHONE: 911).

New Yorkers are sympathetic to out-of-towners in need of help. Many New Yorkers carry cell phones, so consider asking someone to make the call for you if you are unable to do so yourself.

Hospitals

Bellevue (462 1st Ave., at E. 30th St., Gramercy. PHONE: 212/562-4141).

Beth Israel Medical Center (1st Ave. at E. 16th St., Gramercy. PHONE: 212/420-2000).

Cabrini Medical Center (227 E. 19th St., between 2nd and 3rd Aves., Gramercy. PHONE: 212/995-6620).

Columbia Presbyterian Medical Center (622 W. 168th St., at Fort Washington Ave., Washington Heights. PHONE: 212/305-2255).

Lenox Hill Hospital (100 E. 77th St., between Lexington and Park Aves., Upper East Side. PHONE: 212/434-3030).

Mount Sinai Hospital (Madison Ave. at E. 100th St., Upper East Side. PHONE: 212/241-7171).

New York Hospital-Cornell Medical Center (525 E. 68th St., at York Ave., Upper East Side. PHONE: 212/746-5454).

New York University Hospital Downtown (Formerly Beekman Downtown) (170 William St., between Beekman and Spruce Sts., Lower Manhattan. PHONE: 212/312-5000).

New York University Medical Center (550 1st Ave., at E. 32nd St., Murray Hill. PHONE: 212/263-5550).

St. Luke's-Roosevelt Hospital (9th Ave., at 59th St., Midtown West. PHONE: 212/523-6800).

St. Vincent's Hospital (7th Ave. and W. 12th St., Greenwich Village. PHONE: 212/604-7997).

Hot Lines

Mental Health (PHONE: 212/219-5599 or 800/527-7474).

Sex Crimes Report Line (PHONE: 212/267-7273).

Special Victims Liaison Unit (PHONE: 212/267-7273).

Victims Services (PHONE: 212/577-7777).

24-Hour Pharmacies

CVS (342 E. 23rd St., between 1st and 2nd Aves., Gramercy. PHONE: 212/505-1555, www.cvs.com, 630 Lexington Ave., at E. 53rd St., Midtown East, PHONE: 917/369-8688).

Duane Reade (485 Lexington Ave., at E. 47th St., Midtown East. PHONE: 212/682-5338, www.duanereade.com).

Genovese (1299 2nd Ave., at E. 68th St., Upper East Side. PHONE: 212/772-0104, www.genovese.com).

Rite-Aid (303 W. 50th St., at 8th Ave., Midtown West. PHONE: 212/247-8736, www.riteaid.com).

A guided tour can be a good way to get a handle on this sometimes overwhelming city, to explore out-of-the-way areas to which you might not want to venture on your own, or get in-depth exposure to a particular facet of the city's history, inhabitants, or architecture.

Boat Tours

In good weather, a Circle Line Cruise (Pier 83 at W. 42nd St., Midtown West. PHONE: 212/563-3200, www.circleline.com) is one of the best ways to get oriented. Once you've finished the three-hour, 35-mi circumnavigation of Manhattan, you'll have a good idea of where things are and what you want to see next. Narrations are as interesting and individualized as the guides who deliver them. The Circle Line operates daily, and the price is $25. Semi-Circle cruises, a limited tour, also run daily; the price is $20.

NY Waterway (Pier 78 at W. 38th St. and 12th Ave., Midtown West. PHONE: 800/533-3779, www.nywaterway.com) runs harbor cruises for $19. Dates and times vary, but the cruises run year-round; the Twilight Cruise operates from May through late December.

The 54-seat vessels of the New York Water Taxi (NYWT, PHONE: 212/742-1969, www.newyorkwatertaxi.com) are available for custom charters with dining and dancing. A variety of themed cruises, from baseball to Broadway, are also available.

Several cruises leave from South Street Seaport's Pier 16. The cargo schooner Pioneer (Pier 16 at South Street Seaport, Lower Manhattan. PHONE: 212/748-8786, www.southstseaport.org) makes 1½- or 2-hour voyages Tuesday through Sunday, from May to September.

Seaport Liberty Cruises (Pier 16 at South Street Seaport, Lower Manhattan. PHONE: 212/630-8888 or 212/563-3200, www.circleline.com) run daily, hour-long sightseeing tours of New York Harbor and lower Manhattan; the cost is $13. There are also two-hour cruises with live jazz and blues on Wednesday and Thursday nights, from April through September.

For serious water fans there are four- and six-hour Saturday trips aboard the wooden W. O. Decker Tugboat (Pier 16 at South Street Seaport, Lower Manhattan. PHONE: 212/748-8786, www.southstseaport.org) tugboat, operated by the South Street Seaport Museum. Adult fare starts at $125.

The Spirit of New York (Pier 61 at W. 23rd St. and 12th Ave., Chelsea. PHONE: 212/742-7278, www.spiritcruises.com) sets out on lunch ($30-$45) and dinner ($50-$85) cruises. The meal is accompanied by live music and dancing. Private parties can also be arranged.

World Yacht Cruises (Pier 81 at W. 41st St. and 12th Ave., Midtown West. PHONE: 212/630-8100, www.worldyacht.com) serves Sunday brunch on two-hour cruises, and dinner ($67-$79) on three-hour cruises. The Continental cuisine is restaurant quality, prepared by some of New York's leading chefs, and there's music and dancing on board. The cruises run daily from April through December, and weekends only from January through March (weather permitting). Reservations are necessary.

Bus Tours

Gray Line New York (Port Authority Bus Terminal, 625 8th Ave., at 42nd St., Midtown West. PHONE: 800/669-0051, www.graylinenewyork.com) runs a number of "hop-on, hop-off" double-decker bus tours in various languages, including a downtown Manhattan loop, upper Manhattan loop, Harlem gospel tour, and evening tours of the city. Packages include entrance fees to attractions and one-day MetroCards. The company also books sightseeing cruises, as well as day trips to Atlantic City, West Point, and other locations in the New York area.

New York Double-Decker Bus Tours (72-25 Queens Blvd., Woodside, Queens. PHONE: 718/361-5788, www. nydecker.com) runs authentic London double-deck buses year-round, 9 AM-6 PM in summer, 9 AM-3 PM in winter, making stops every 15-30 minutes. Tickets, which are valid for boarding and reboarding all day for five days, cost $26 for a downtown loop, $26 for an uptown loop, and $40 for a combination ticket. For all tours, you can hop on and off as often as you like.

Helicopter Tours

Liberty Helicopter Tours (Heliport, W. 30th St. at 12th Ave., Midtown West. PHONE: 212/465-8905, www.libertyhelicopters.com) has three pilot-narrated tours from $49 to $155 per person.

Private Guides

Arthur Marks (PHONE: 212/673-0477) creates customized tours on which he sings show tunes about the city.

Walk of the Town (PHONE: 212/222-5343) will tailor a tour to your interests; special themes include "Cops, Crooks, and the Courts" and "When Harlem was Jewish." Tours are available by appointment only.

Special-Interest Tours

Art Tours of Manhattan (PHONE: 609/924-0408) custom-designs walking tours of museum and gallery exhibits as well as artists' studios and lofts.

Bite of the Big Apple (PHONE: 212/541-8759) Central Park Bicycle Tour organizes two-hour bicycle trips through Central Park with stops along the way, including Strawberry Fields and the Belvedere Castle.

Ellen Sax Tours (PHONE: 212/832-0350, esax@erols.com) arranges architectural sightseeing, visits to museums, galleries, the theater district, the financial district, and other neighborhoods in Manhattan for groups of six or more.

The Gracie Mansion Conservancy Tour (PHONE: 212/570-4751) will show you the 1799 house, official residence of New York City mayors since 1942. The mansion is open to the public on Wednesday; the tours run late March-mid-November, and reservations are mandatory. There's a suggested $4 donation.

Harlem Spirituals (PHONE: 212/757-0425, www.harlemspirituals.com) leads bus and walking tours and Sunday gospel trips to Harlem.

In Harlem, you can trace the history of jazz backstage at the Apollo Theatre (PHONE: 212/531-5305, www.apollotheatre.org).

The Lower East Side Tenement Museum (PHONE: 212/431-0233, www.tenement.org) runs a tour of the Lower East Side, retracing its history as an immigrant community; it's available Saturday and Sunday, April through December.

Opera buffs tour scenery and costume shops and the stage area with The Metropolitan Opera House Backstage (PHONE: 212/769-7020, www.operaed.org).

Quintessential New York (PHONE: 212/595-6510, www.qny.com) has more than a dozen specialty tours for groups of six or more, each with a behind-the-scenes take. For example, during "The Artist Colony: SoHo" tour, guests visit an artist's studio and an antique dealer's workshop. Another plus is the chauffeured car.

The South Street Seaport Museum (PHONE: 212/748-8590, www.southstseaport.com) has tours of historic ships and the waterfront, as well as predawn forays through the fish market.

Walking Tours: Guided

Adventure on a Shoestring (PHONE: 212/265-2663). is an organization dating from 1963 that explores New York neighborhoods. Weekend tours run rain or shine, and cost $5 per person. Reservations are a must.

The wisecracking PhD candidates of Big Onion Walking Tours (PHONE: 212/439-1090, www.bigonion.com) lead themed tours such as "Riot & Rebellion" and "The Multi-Ethnic Eating Tour: From Naples to Bialystock to Beijing" in addition to neighborhood walks.

The Downtown Alliance (PHONE: 212/606-4064, www.downtownny.com) conducts free, history-rich tours of the Wall Street area on Thursday and Saturday at noon. Meet on the steps of the National Museum of the American Indian at Bowling Green.

Radical Walking Tours (PHONE: 718/492-0069), based on a book by Bruce Kayton, visits sites of activism and revolution, such as prohibition-banned speakeasies, old meeting houses of the Black Panthers, and former communist gathering places.

The Municipal Art Society (PHONE: 212/935-3960; 212/439-1049 for recorded information, www.mas.org) conducts a series of walking tours on weekdays and both bus and walking tours on weekends. It also sponsors "Discover New York" tours, which highlight the city's architecture and history.

New York City Cultural Walking Tours (PHONE: 212/979-2388, www.nycwalk.com) focuses on the city's architecture and history. Tours are run every Sunday from March to December; private tours can be scheduled throughout the week.

Urban Explorations (PHONE: 718/721-5254) runs tours with an emphasis on architecture and landscape design. Chinatown is a specialty.

River to River Walking Tours (PHONE: 212/321-2823) specializes in lower Manhattan on its 2½-hour walking excursions.

Urban Park Rangers (PHONE: 212/628-2345, www.nycparks.org) conducts free weekend walks and workshops in city parks.

The knowledgeable Joyce Gold (PHONE: 212/242-5762, www.nyctours.com) has been conducting tours for more than 25 years. Regular historical walks include "Greenwich Village Highlights" and "5th Avenue Gold Coast." The contributions of immigrants and artists to various neighborhoods are often highlighted in other tours.

Walking Tours: Self-Guided

Pop one of the Talk-a-Walk (Sound Publishers, 30 Waterside Plaza, Suite 10D, E. 23rd at 3rd Ave., Gramercy, New York, NY, 10010, USA. PHONE: 212/686-0356) cassettes ($9.95 per tape, plus $2.90 for shipping and handling for up to four tapes) into your Walkman and start strolling to an in-your-ear history of lower Manhattan or the Brooklyn Bridge.

For a narrated tour of Central Park, pick up an audio guide from the bike rental shop Pedal Pusher (1306 2nd Ave., between E. 68th and E. 69th Sts., Upper East Side. PHONE: 212/288-5592).

Every address in the United States belongs to a specific zip-code district, and each zip code has five digits. Some addresses include a second sequence of four numbers following the first five numbers, but although this speeds mail delivery for large organizations, it is not necessary to use it. Each zip-code district has at least one post office, where you can buy stamps and aerograms, send parcels, or conduct other postal business.

Occasionally you may find small stamp-dispensing machines in airports, train stations, bus terminals, large office buildings, hotel lobbies, pharmacys, or grocery stores, but don't count on it. Most Americans go to the post office to buy their stamps, and the lines can be long.

Post offices in New York City are open weekdays 8 AM-5 PM or 8 AM-6 PM and Saturday until 1 PM. There are dozens of branches in New York, many of which provide abbreviated Saturday hours as well. You'll usually find the shortest lines at the smaller branches. The main post office, J.A. Farley General Post Office (8th Ave. at W. 33rd St., Midtown West, 10116. PHONE: 212/967-8585) on 8th Avenue is open daily 24 hours.

Official mailboxes are either the stout, royal blue steel bins on city sidewalks or mail chutes on the walls of post offices or in large office buildings. A schedule posted on mailboxes and mail slots should indicate when the mail is picked up.

Sending Mail Home

First-class letters (one ounce or less) sent within the United States cost 37 cents; postcards are 23 cents. A one-ounce letter to Canada or Mexico takes a 60-cent stamp and a postcard 50 cents. Letters sent airmail to all other overseas destinations cost 80 cents for one ounce or less (this rate category is now called airmail letter-post, and surface mail is now called economy letter-post); airmail postcards to other overseas destinations cost 70 cents. For 70 cents, you can also buy an aerogram -- a pre-stamped sheet of lightweight blue paper that folds into its own envelope.

Receiving Mail

If you wish to receive mail while traveling in the United States, have it sent c/o General Delivery at the city's main post office (be sure to use the right zip code). It will be held there for up to 30 days. You must pick it up in person, and bring identification with you. American Express offices in the United States do not hold mail.

In New York, it's easy to get swept up in a debt-inducing cyclone of $60 per-person dinners, $80 theater tickets, $25 nightclub covers, $10 cab rides, and $300 hotel rooms. But one of the good things about the city is that there's such a wide variety of options, you can spend in some areas and save in others. Generally, prices in the outer boroughs are lower than those in Manhattan. Within Manhattan, a cup of coffee can cost from 50¢ to $4, a pint of beer from $3 to $7, and a sandwich from $3.50 to $10.

The most generously bequeathed treasure of the city is the arts. The admission fee at the Metropolitan Museum of Art is a suggestion; those who can't afford it can donate a lesser amount and not be snubbed. In summer a handful of free music, theater, and dance performances, as well as films (usually outdoors) fill the calendar each day.

ATMs

Cash machines are abundant throughout all the boroughs and are found not only in banks but in many grocery stores, Laundromats, delis, and hotels. But beware, many bank ATMs charge users a fee of up to $1.75, and the commercial ATMs in retail establishments can charge even more. Be careful to remain at the ATM until you complete your transaction, which may require an extra step after receiving your money.

Currency

The basic unit of U.S. currency is the dollar, which is subdivided into 100 cents. Coins are the copper penny (1 cent) and four silver coins: the nickel (5 cents), the dime (10 cents), the quarter (25 cents), and the half-dollar (50 cents). Silver $1 coins and "golden" dollar coins (the latter introduced in 2000) are rarely seen in circulation. Paper money comes in denominations of $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100. All these bills are the same size and green in color; they are distinguishable only by the dollar amount indicated on them and by pictures of various famous American people and monuments.

For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. Although fees charged for ATM transactions may be higher abroad than at home, Cirrus and Plus exchange rates are excellent, because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores, although you may find their hours more convenient. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get a bit of local currency before you leave home.

In general, U.S. banks will not cash a personal check for you unless you have an account at that bank (it doesn't have to be at that branch). Only in major cities are large bank branches equipped to exchange foreign currencies. Therefore, it's best to rely on credit cards, cash machines, and traveler's checks to handle expenses while you're traveling.

Exchanging Money

Currency-exchange booths are located throughout Manhattan, especially in touristy areas such as Grand Central Terminal (main concourse), South Street Seaport, and Times Square. Banks will also exchange money, but they have shorter hours (many banks close at 3 PM on weekdays and shut down entirely on weekends).

Exchange offices include:

Chase Foreign Currency Department (PHONE: 212/935-9935).

Chequepoint USA (PHONE: 212/750-2400).

Thomas Cook Currency Services (PHONE: 800/287-7362).

Money Orders, Funds Transfers

Any U.S. bank is equipped to accept transfers of funds from foreign banks. It helps if you can plan dates to pick up money at specific bank branches. Your home bank can supply you with a list of its correspondent banks in the United States.

If you have more time, and you have a U.S. address where you can receive mail, you can have someone send you a certified check, which you can cash at any bank, or a postal money order (for as much as $700, obtained for a fee of up to 85¢ at any U.S. post office and redeemable at any other post office). From overseas, you can have someone go to a bank to send you an international money order (also called a bank draft), which will cost a $15-$20 commission plus airmail postage. Always bring two valid pieces of identification, preferably with photos, to claim your money.

Taxes

New York City's 8.625% sales tax applies to almost everything you can buy retail, including restaurant meals. Prescription drugs and nonprepared food bought in grocery stores are tax exempt.

The city charges tax on hotel rooms (13.25%), rental cars (13.25%), and parking in commercial lots or garages (18.25%).

Tipping

The customary tipping rate is 15%-20% for taxi drivers and waiters; bellhops are usually given $2 per bag in luxury hotels, $1 per bag elsewhere. Hotel maids should be tipped $2 per day of your stay. A doorman who hails or helps you into a cab can be tipped $1-$2. You should also tip your hotel concierge for services rendered; the size of the tip depends on the difficulty of your request, as well as the quality of the concierge's work. For an ordinary dinner reservation or tour arrangements, $3-$5 should do; if the concierge scores seats at a popular restaurant or show or performs unusual services (getting your laptop repaired, finding a good allergist, etc.), $10 or more is appropriate.

Waiters should be tipped 15%-20%, though at higher-end restaurants, a solid 20% is more the norm. Many restaurants add a gratuity to the bill for parties of six or more. Ask what the percentage is if the menu or bill doesn't state it. Tip $1 per drink you order at the bar, though if at an upscale establishment, those $15 martinis might warrant a $2 tip.

Entering the United States

Visitor visas are not necessary for Canadian citizens, or for citizens of Australia and the United Kingdom who are staying fewer than 90 days. A valid passport, a return-trip ticket, and proof of financial solvency are required; you'll be asked to fill out the Visa Waiver Form, I-94W, upon entry. Travelers who plan to stay more than 90 days can apply for the appropriate visa at the United States embassy or consulates in their home country. Canadian citizens need valid identification but neither a passport nor a visa to enter the United States.

At Home

If you live in the U.K.:

U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (PHONE: 09068/200-290 recorded visa information; 09055/444-546 operator service; both with per-minute charges) for U.S. visa information.

U.S. Embassy Visa Branch (5 Upper Grosvenor Sq., London, W1A 2JB.) for U.S. visa information; send a self-addressed, stamped envelope.

Contact the U.S. Consulate General (Queen's House, 14 Queen St., Belfast, BT1 6EQ, Northern Ireland. PHONE: 028/9032-8239, www.usembassy.org.uk) if you live in Northern Ireland.

Contact the United States Consulate General (MLC Centre, 19-29 Martin Pl., 59th floor, Sydney, NSW, 2000. PHONE: 02/9373-9200; 1902/941-641 fee-based visa-inquiry line, www.usis-australia.gov/index.html) if you live in Australia.

If you live in New Zealand:

Embassy of the United States (29 Fitzherbert Terr., Thorndon, Wellington. PHONE: 04/462-6000, usembassy.org.nz).

U.S. Consulate General (Citibank Bldg., 3rd floor, 23 Customs St. E, Auckland. PHONE: 09/303-2724, usembassy.org.nz).

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232, www.dfat.gov.au/passports).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868, www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410, www.ukpa.gov.uk) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674 calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service; $1.05 per minute for operator service, travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

New York City Doggie Tours

Susan and Art Zuckerman have been leading walking tours of New York City for many years. But they always missed taking their golden retriever, Tawny. So in 1998 they decided to stop leaving her at home when they set out for their extended walks, and they began offering dog-friendly tours. Susan, a history teacher, and Art, a computer expert, know and love New York and can tell endless colorful stories about its places and history.

As pet owners, they also know where to find the most dog-friendly hotels and restaurants (and you usually stop for a meal on your tours). They know the best dog runs, too. And they're happy to plan a special tour of any length covering any part or aspect of the city that interests you. No dog surprises them: One guest arrived for a tour with a 165-lb. Newfoundland; he and Tawny litreally blocked the sidewalk as they waited for their owners to eat.

There's a $15 charge per person with a $50 minimum. Your dog and any children get to listen to the expert commentary for free.

New York City Doggie Tours, 81 Van Etten Blvd.,New Rochelle, PHONE: 914/633-7397.

www.zuckermanfamilytravel.com/TawnyNYcitytour.htm

New York Dog Spa & Hotel

Need a place to house your pet in the Big Apple? Want to pamper your pet as you would yourself? Check out the New York Dog Spa & Hotel in the Chelsea district, convenient to Greenwich Village, Gramercy Park, and midtown. Some pets come for the day, others for several, to be catered to by trained attendants and spoiled with private runs and cages, common areas to share with playmates, and several walks a day.

You're free to bring along your pet's favorite toys, bed, blanket, and anything else to provide comfort in your absence. You can drop off Fido or Fifi as early as 7 AM and return as late as 10 PM.

Having arranged in advance, your pet can also be treated as you might be at Elizabeth Arden farther uptown. They'll bathe and blow-dry her hair, cut her nails and clean her ears -- even give her a hot-oil treatment.

Younger dogs can be enrolled in Puppy Class, given in conjunction with the Manhattan Dog Training and Behavior Center, which uses the Sirius Puppy Training Program. A veterinarian is on hand every day except Sunday, too, and the hotel's gift shop offers a nice selection of luxury shampoos, coats and sweaters, bowls, beds, and books (for you, not your dog).

Rates depend on your dog's size and weight, beginning at around $26 for day care, around $45 for overnight boarding. Reserve ahead, and be prepared to provide your dog's medical and vaccination records.

New York Dog Spa & Hotel, 145 West 18th St., PHONE: 212/243-1199. www.nydogspa.com

William Secord Gallery

Like horses, dogs have long fascinated artists. So too William Secord, the world authority on dogs in art. The founding director of the American Kennel Club's Museum of the Dog, now in St. Louis, he's the author of Dog Painting 1840-1940: A Social History of the Dog in Art and Dog Painting: The European Breeds. He opened an art gallery devoted to dog art and artifacts on New York City's Upper East Side in 1990.

At first the gallery specialized in 19th-century dog paintings. The collection was international and included work by Sir Edwin Landseer, George Earl, Maud Earl, John Emms, and Arthur Wardle. Today, you'll also find works in bronze, antique walking sticks, terra-cottas, dog collars, porcelains, and various other collectible items, with prices ranging from around $1,000 up, as well as work by 20th-century artists, modern masters Barrie Barnett and Christine Merrill, prints by Bert Cobb and Marguerite Kirmse, and drawings by Gladys Emerson Cook.

Affenpinschers and Akitas, Australian cattle dogs and kelpies, Auvergne pointers and Basenjis, Basset hounds and bearded collies, bluetick coon hounds and border terriers, Tibetan terriers and weimaraners, there's scarcely a dog breed that has not made an appearance on Secord's walls. Books about dogs are also available, including Secord's own works in addition to rare and out-of-print volumes that document the history of various breeds.

Want to hang a painting of your own prize pooch front and center in your living room? Commission a portrait by one of the living masters of dog and cat art. A gallery highlight is the Yellow Room, hung with dog paintings from floor to ceiling in the Victorian style.

And, yes, your dog is welcome to visit, too.

William Secord Gallery, 52 E. 76th St., PHONE: 212/249-0075 or 877/249-3647. www.dogpainting.com

Van Cortlandt Park

Even in the world of dog parks, New York is a trendy place.

When Canine Court opened in April 1998 in Van Cortlandt Park, in the northern reaches of the Bronx, it was the first public dog agility course and playground in the country. Now there are others, but it's still pretty spectacular as dog play areas go (it has 14,000 fenced square feet of playground and dog run). Van Cortlandt Park, with 1,146 acres of forest and wetlands, is one of the largest green spaces in New York City. It includes soccer and ball fields, a running track and hiking trails, and its golf course was the first public course built in the United States. If you or your friend long for some on-leash quality time, you can take to the trails. Stroll past Van Cortlandt House Museum, where George Washington headquartered -- twice -- during the American Revolution.

Or take a walk along the Cass Gallagher Nature Trail, the tracks of the Old Putnam Railroad line, which once lined New York and Boston, or along the Old Croton Aqueduct Trail, a path above the immense pipe that once brought New York City its water. There's also the John Kieran Nature Trail, which encircles Van Cortlandt Lake -- New York City's largest -- where there's great bird-watching. You can reach it from Broadway or the Henry Hudson Parkway. Canine Court itself is near the equestrian facilities at the North End of the park's Parade Ground (at Broadway and Lakeview). There are dog events here throughout the year.

Can't make it to the Bronx? The dog run in Washington Square Park, at West Fourth Street and Thompson Street in Greenwich Village, on the south side of the park, will show you a whole new side of the Big Apple as you mingle with the sophisticated Village crowd. You'll also find runs at these locations:

Carl Schurz Park, East End Ave. and Gracie Square (E. 84th St.).

Madison Square Park, 5th Ave. between E. 23rd and E. 26th Sts.

Riverside Park, Riverside Dr. at W. 72nd, W.87th, and W. 105th Sts.

Union Square, E. 15th St. and Union Sq. W.

Public rest rooms in New York are few and far between, and they run the gamut when it comes to cleanliness. Facilities in Penn Station and Grand Central Terminal are not only safe but surprisingly clean and well maintained. Rest rooms in major subway stations remain largely sealed off, though there is one at Union Square. Two clean pay-toilets (25¢) are at the adjacent Herald and Greely squares on West 34th and West 32nd streets.

As a rule, head for midtown department stores, museums, or the lobbies of large hotels to find the cleanest bathrooms. Public atriums, such as the Citicorp Center and Trump Tower, also provide good public facilities, as do Bryant Park and the many Barnes & Noble bookstores and Starbucks coffee shops in the city. Restaurants usually reserve their rest rooms just for patrons, but if you're dressed well and look as if you belong, you can often just sail right in. Be aware that cinemas, Broadway theaters, and concert halls have limited amenities, and there are often long lines before performances and during intermissions.

New York City is one of the safest large cities in the country, outranking both Denver and San Francisco in 2002. However, do not let yourself be lulled into a false sense of security. As in any large city, travelers in New York remain particularly easy marks for pickpockets and hustlers.

In the wake of the World Trade Center disaster, security has been heightened throughout the city. As a result, never leave any bags unattended, and expect to have you and your possessions inspected thoroughly in places like airports, sports stadiums, museums, and tourist sites.

Do ignore the panhandlers on the streets (some aggressive, many homeless), people who offer to hail you a cab (they often appear at Penn Station, Port Authority, and Grand Central Terminal), and limousine and gypsy cab drivers who (illegally) offer you a ride.

Keep jewelry out of sight on the street; better yet, leave valuables at home. Don't wear gold chains or gaudy jewelry, even if it's fake. Men are advised to carry wallets in front pants pockets rather than in their back pockets. When in bars or restaurants, never hang your purse or bag on the back of a chair or put it underneath the table.

Be sure to avoid deserted blocks in unfamiliar neighborhoods. A brisk, purposeful pace helps deter trouble wherever you go.

The subway runs round-the-clock and is generally well trafficked until midnight (even later on Friday and Saturday nights), and overall it is much safer than it once was. If you do take the subway at night, ride in the center car, with the conductor, and wait on the center of the platform or right in front of the station agent. Watch out for unsavory characters lurking around the inside or outside of stations, particularly at night, and if a fellow passenger makes you nervous while on the train, trust your instincts and change cars. At any time of day, don't engage in verbal exchanges with aggressive riders who may accuse others of anything from pushing to taking up too much space. When you're waiting for a train, stand far away from the edge of the subway platform, especially when trains are entering or leaving the station. Once the train pulls into the station, avoid empty cars. When disembarking from a train, stick with the crowd until you reach the street.

The nationwide Traveler's Aid Service (PHONE: 718/656-4870) helps crime victims, stranded travelers, and wayward children, and works closely with the police. Its office at JFK airport is staffed daily 9 AM to 8 PM.

Local Scams

Someone who appears to have had an accident at the exit door of a bus may flee with your wallet or purse if you attempt to give aid. The individual who approaches you with a complicated story is probably playing a confidence game and hopes to get something from you. Also beware of strangers jostling you in crowds, or someone tapping your shoulder from behind. Never play or place a bet on a sidewalk card game, shell game, or guessing game -- they are all rigged to get your cash, and they're illegal.

Avoid making calls from your hotel room, because you may be charged a higher rate than usual for direct-dial calls or a surcharge on credit card calls. Public pay phones are easily found on the street and in hotels, bars, and restaurants.

Make sure that the pay phone is labeled as a Verizon telephone; the unmarked varieties are notorious change-eaters. There are also public credit card phones scattered around the city. If you want to consult a directory or make a more leisurely call, pay phones in the lobbies of office buildings or hotels (some of which take credit cards) are a better choice.

The country code for the United States is 1. The area codes for Manhattan are 212, 646, and 917. For Brooklyn, Queens, the Bronx, and Staten Island, the area codes are 718 and 347. The area codes 917, 347, and 646 are also used for many cellular phones and pagers in all five boroughs.

To dial any New York City number from any other New York City number (to 212, 718, 917, 646, or 347, from 212, 718, 917, 646, or 347), even if you're dialing within your own area code, you will have to dial "1" plus the area code, plus the seven-digit number.

All U.S. telephone numbers consist of 10 digits -- the three-digit area code, followed by a seven-digit local number. If you're calling a number from another area-code region, dial "1" then all 10 digits. If you're calling from a distance but within the same area code, dial "1" then the last seven digits. For calls within the same local calling area, just dial the seven-digit number. A map of U.S. area codes is printed in the front of most local telephone directories.

Four special prefixes, "800," "888," "877," and "900," are not area codes but indicators of particular kinds of service. "800," "888," and "877" numbers can be dialed free from anywhere in the country -- usually they are prepaid commercial lines that make it easier for consumers to obtain information, products, or services. The "900" numbers charge you for making the call and generally offer some kind of entertainment, such as horoscope readings, sports scores, or sexually suggestive conversations. These services can be very expensive, so know what you're getting into before you dial a "900" number.

Directory & Operator Information

For assistance from an operator, dial "0". To get a local or national telephone number, dial 411; in a few places it is necessary to dial 555-1212. If you want to charge a long-distance call to the person you're calling, call collect by dialing "0" instead of "1" before the 10-digit number, and an operator will come on the line to assist you (the party you're calling, however, has the right to refuse the call).

International Calls

International calls can be direct-dialed from most phones; dial 011, followed by the country code and then the local number (the front pages of many local telephone directories include a list of overseas country codes). To have an operator assist you, dial "0" and ask for the overseas operator. The country code for Australia is 61; New Zealand, 64; and the United Kingdom, 44. To reach Canada, dial 1 + area code + number.

Long-Distance Calls

Competitive long-distance carriers make calling within the United States relatively convenient and let you avoid hotel surcharges. By dialing an 800 number, you can get connected to the long-distance company of your choice.

For details, contact AT&T (PHONE: 800/225-5288), MCI (PHONE: 800/888-8000), or Sprint (PHONE: 800/366-2255).

Public Phones

The most common pay phone in operation today is the coin-operated type. To use one, pick up the receiver, deposit your money (25¢ for local calls), wait for a steady tone before dialing, and then dial the number. An automated message will alert you to deposit more money, if needed.

Telephone-card phones, so popular elsewhere in the world, are becoming increasingly common. Grocery stores, newsstands, and other establishments sell the disposable phone cards, available in varying amounts from $5 and up. To activate the card, dial the code number and follow the instructions printed on the card.

Tourist Offices

The Grand Central Partnership (a sort of civic Good Samaritans' group) has installed a number of unstaffed information kiosks near Grand Central Terminal, loaded with maps and helpful brochures on attractions throughout the city. There are also seasonal outdoor carts sprinkled throughout the area (there is one near Vanderbilt Avenue and East 42nd Street), staffed by friendly, knowledgeable, multilingual New Yorkers. The 34th Street Partnership runs a kiosk on the concourse level at Penn Station (33rd Street and 7th Avenue); there's even a cart at the Empire State Building (5th Avenue at 34th Street.)

Contact the NYC & Company-Convention & Visitors Bureau (810 7th Ave., between W. 52nd and W. 53rd Sts., 3rd floor, Midtown West. PHONE: 212/484-1222 or 212/397-8200, FAX: 212/245-5943, www.nycvisit.com), weekdays 8:30 AM-6 PM, weekends 9 AM-5 -8 PM.

For a free booklet listing New York City attractions and tour packages, contact the New York State Division of Tourism. Mailing address: Box 2603, Albany, NY, 12220, USA. PHONE: 518/474-4116 or 800/225-5697, www.iloveny.state.ny.us.

At Home

Canadian travelers can contact Travel USA (PHONE: 905/890-5662; 800/268-3482 in Ontario).

In the United Kingdom, contact the United States Travel and Tourism Administration (Box 1EN, London, W1A 1EN. PHONE: 020/7495-4466).

At one time, New York's cultural life was limited to the months between October and May, when new Broadway shows opened, museums mounted major exhibitions, and formal seasons for opera, ballet, and concerts held sway. Today, however, there are Broadway openings even in mid-July, and a number of touring orchestras and opera and ballet companies visit the city in summer. In late spring and summer, the streets and parks are filled with ethnic parades, impromptu sidewalk concerts, and free performances under the stars. Except for regular closing days and a few major holidays, the city's museums are open year-round.

Although there's an occasional bone-chilling winter day, with winds blasting off the Hudson River, snow only occasionally accumulates in the city. Late summer is the only really unpleasant time of year, especially the humid, hot days of August (when the temperature can reach 100°F). Air-conditioned stores, restaurants, theaters, and museums provide respite from the heat; so do the many green expanses of parks. Subways and buses are usually air-conditioned, but subway stations can be as hot as saunas.

When September arrives -- with its dry "champagnelike" weather -- the city shakes off its summer sluggishness. Mild and comfortable, autumn shows the city off at its best, with yellow and bronze foliage displays in the parks.

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for New York City:

January 25-38°F (-4 to 3°C); February 27-40°F (-3 to 4°C); March 35-50°F (2-10°C); April 44-61°F (7-16°C); May 54-72°F (12-22°C); June 63-80°F (17-27°C); July 68-85°F (20-29°C); August 67-84°F (19-29°C); September 60-76°F (16-24°C); October 50-65°F (10-18°C); November 41-54°F (5-12°C); December 31-43°F (-1 to 6°C).

Holidays

Major national holidays include New Year's Day (Jan. 1); Martin Luther King, Jr., Day (3rd Mon. in Jan.); President's Day (3rd Mon. in Feb.); Memorial Day (last Mon. in May); Independence Day (July 4); Labor Day (1st Mon. in Sept.); Thanksgiving Day (4th Thurs. in Nov.); Christmas Eve and Christmas Day (Dec. 24 and 25); and New Year's Eve (Dec. 31).