Stroll into the U.S. branches of the Parisian fine-food purveyor to pick up house blends of tea and coffee and some luscious jams for a future petit déjeuner, then study the chocolate counter's bonbons. Subway: E, V, 6 to 51st./Lexington Ave. Other locations: 1000 Madison Ave., between E. 77th and E. 78th Sts., Upper East Side, PHONE: 212/570-2211; Subway: 6 to 77th St. 1383 3rd Ave., between E. 78th and E. 79th Sts., Upper East Side, PHONE: 212/517-9600; Subway: 6 to 77th St.