Hangawi, serving "vegetarian mountain Korean cooking," holds a special place in the city's small collection of vegetarian restaurants. For the full experience choose the "emperor's menu," a parade of more than 10 courses designed as a complete introduction to this unusual cuisine. Offerings include delicate soups, such as miso broth or pumpkin puree; stuffed tofu; marinated wild mountain herbs; and a main-course spread of more than 15 bowls of assorted kimchi -- some taste like earth, some are brazenly spiced. Exotic teas, including one made from a puree of dates, or an unfiltered milky white Korean sake served from a wooden bowl are good accompaniments to the meal. Reservations essential. Subway: B, D, F, N, R, Q, V, W to 34th St.