It's not often you get to enjoy good Thai food in such a trendy setting. The vibrant food -- enlivened by chilies, opal basil, and kaffir lime -- comes carefully composed in layer-cake form. Taste buds awaken to the spicy som tum and rich tom kah gai, not to mention anything in kaw praw. A large and informative wine list is an added bonus. Subway: C, E to 23rd St.