It's not often you get to enjoy good Thai food within a clubby setting of dark-wood floors, brick-face walls, huge gilt-framed mirrors, and old-fashioned paintings. The vibrant food -- enlivened by chilies, opal basil, and kaffir lime -- comes carefully composed in layer-cake form. Taste buds awaken to shu-shee (crispy duck with Panang curry sauce and kaffir lime leaves), and Talay Thai (sautéed seafood with lemongrass, holy basil leaves, galangal, kaffir lime leaves, ground chili pepper, and mushrooms in a white wine sauce). A large and informative wine list is an added bonus. Subway: 6 to Astor Pl.