They may have added tablecloths, but it would take more than that to hide the brusque, no-nonsense nature of this legendary steak house. The steak is always impeccable, and lobsters are so big there may not be room at the table for such classic side dishes as rich creamed spinach. The "half and half" side combination of cottage-fried potatoes and fried onions is addictive. Overflow from the restaurant caused the owners to open Palm Too, a slightly less raffish version of the original, across the street, and another edition across town. Reservations essential. Subway: S, 4, 5, 6, 7 to 42nd St.-Grand Central. Other location: Palm Too, 840 2nd Ave., between E. 44th and E. 45th Sts., PHONE: 212/697-5198;