With a vibrant crimson interior, vintage nude photographs, and cerise leather banquettes that line the glowing red velvet walls, Strip House is decked out. In David Walzog, one of the greatest steak-minded chefs in the country (he also oversees Michael Jordan's -- The Steak House NYC in Grand Central Station), strip steak here achieves an incomparable depth of lusciousness and beefy flavor. Strip House, however, is about far more than meat. Lobster bisque reminds you how tasty lobster can really be: thick, smoky, and redolent of the fragrance of roasted shells. A potato finished in goose fat becomes an exercise in irresistible textures, and truffled creamed spinach is even more resonant. The eight-inch wedge of cheesecake is enough for seven. Subway: L, N, Q, R, W, 4, 5, 6 to 14th St./Union Sq.