They may have added tablecloths, but it would take more than that to hide the brusque, no-nonsense nature of this West Side branch of the legendary steak house. The steak is always impeccable, and the lobsters are so big there may not be room at the table for such classic side dishes as rich creamed spinach. The "half and half" side combination of cottage-fried potatoes and fried onions is addictive. Reservations essential. Jacket required. Subway: F, N, R, Q, W to 57th St.