Among the most venerable steak houses around, Ben Benson's is like a clubby hunting lodge. The choreographed staff will bring you only the finest dry-aged prime meats, only the freshest seafood, and top-of-the-line poultry, all classically prepared, teeming with the simple flavors. All the trimmings are ravishing, too: perfect creamed spinach, sizzling onion rings, and herbed and creamed wild mushrooms are essential. Power lunches were practically invented here; just being in the place makes you feel important. Reservations essential. Subway: B, D, F, V to 47th-50th Sts. Rockefeller Center.