With its contemporary take on Southern cooking, this popular restaurant has plenty to keep you interested. Check out the "soul roll," a playful variation on an egg roll made with chicken, collard greens, and black-eyed peas. Tasty chicken wings come two ways: Harlem style (floured and deep fried) or barbecued. There are three separate dining areas plus a bar in front, all decorated with African and American paintings. Jacket required. Subway: 1, 9 to 79th St.