Deep in the belly of Grand Central Station, the Oyster Bar has been a worthy seafood destination for nine decades. The cavernous tile space combines the camp of a 1970s airport-style lounge, the noir style of a serpentine lunch counter, and the appealing tackiness of a commuter tavern. Sit at the counter and slurp an assortment of bracingly fresh oysters, or a steaming bowl of clam chowder, and wash it down with an ice-cold brew. Or experience the forgotten pleasure of fresh, unadorned seafood such as lobster with drawn butter or matjes herring in season. Avoid anything that sounds newfangled. Reservations essential. Subway: S, 4, 5, 6, 7 to 42nd St.-Grand Central.