Mario Batali's Esca, Italian for "bait," lures diners in with delectable raw preparations called cruda -- scallops with tangerine oil or pink snapper with a sprinkle of crunchy red clay salt -- and hooks them with such entrées as whole, salt-crusted branzino (sea bass), or bucatini pasta with crab or octopus. The dining room conjures images of sea and sand, though the high-powered media crowd could only exist in Manhattan. Batali's partner, Joe Bastianich, is in charge of the wine cellar, so expect an adventurous list of esoteric Italian bottles. Reservations essential. Subway: A, C, E to 42nd St.