Citarella's enormously popular trio of stores in Manhattan demonstrates some of the best fish-market connections in town, so the emergence of a state-of-the-art seafood restaurant from the fold was inevitable. Cozily ensconced in a four-story, highly aquatic and luxurious space (yet another Rockwell Group design), the restaurant showcases chef Brian Bistrong's culinary wiles. You won't find fresher, tastier striped bass, a hunk of which is served with fava beans, morels, and a red wine reduction. Swordfish is grilled and oil-poached, and served with gnocchi, scallions, chorizo, and preserved lemon sauce. William Yosses's glorious desserts include warm vanilla cake with 12-bean vanilla ice cream and chocolate-cherry jubilee bonbon with caramelized pistachios. Reservations essential. Subway: B, D, F, V to 47th-50th Sts. Rockefeller Center.