A copper-and-tile raw bar anchors one end of this warm, sweeping room of indigo, sienna, and yellow. The original 1904 molded ceiling and marble everywhere recall the space's former life as a bank. Strong on fresh seafood served neat (chilled whole lobster, shrimp in the rough), the menu also has international flair -- sushi and sashimi, ginger-soy lacquered Chilean sea bass, sautéed lobster and diver scallops with asparagus -- and simple preparations that issue forth from a wood-burning oven. For dessert, go for the caramelized banana ice-cream tower in a hazelnut shell. A lounge and dining room in the basement vault has live jazz. Reservations essential. Subway: L, N, Q, R, W, 4, 5, 6 to 14th St./Union Sq.