An old sign for the Good World Barber Shop, the original tenant, marks the storefront of this downtown hangout with a Swedish bent on the fringes of Chinatown. The groovy crowd of nonblonds smoking cigarettes in the shabby, bohemian space snacks on potato pancakes that are sweet and salty with lingonberries and bacon, Swedish meatballs, fish soup, and a tasting plate of herring. Subway: F, V to 2nd Ave.