Forget herring, lingonberries, and pea soup (although they're better here than anywhere else): think molten foie gras ganache with truffle ice cream. Desserts are equally creative and scrumptious. New York's largest selection of aquavits (a strong Scandinavian liquor) partners the well-chosen wine list. Sunday brunch is literally a smorgasbord. Reservations essential. Jacket required. Subway: E, V to 5th Ave.-53rd St.