Eight dining rooms full of objets d'art and period antiques lie within these two brownstones resembling a pre-Revolutionary St. Petersburg mansion. Staples of the regional cuisine range from caviar and zakuska (assorted Russian hors d'oeuvres) to porcini-crusted monkfish to tea with cherry preserves. Great desserts (an assortment of Russian cookies steals the show) and extraordinary vodka selection are giddy indulgences. Reservations essential. Subway: A, C, E to 42nd St.