A tour of duty at Bangkok's Oriental Hotel inspired Jean-Georges Vongerichten to create this radiant restaurant of potted palms and gold-leaf ceilings. Presentation is vital here: the food is showcased on dazzling dishes of varying sizes, colors, and shapes. The menu changes seasonally, but reliable standbys include chicken and coconut soup with galangal (a gingerlike root) and shiitake mushrooms, braised rabbit curry, and grilled beef and noodles in a ginger broth. A good strategy for two or more: Order set preordained assortments of five appetizers ($21 per person) and five terrific desserts. It's not authentic Thai -- more like French-Thai fusion -- but the food is intensely delicious. Reservations essential. Subway: 6 to 51st St./Lexington Ave.; E, V, to Lexington-3rd Aves./53rd St.