This is the midtown branch of the Upper West Side, Pan-Asian hot spot. The menu incorporates favorites from most Asian cuisines, including a pungent Thai hot-and-sour soup with shrimp and ginger wontons. Dim sum and sushi is also available. If some of the food doesn't quite measure up to the grand setting, the place is so lively and amusing no one seems to mind a bit. Reservations essential. Subway: C, E to 50th St.