Explore the unusual menu while enjoying a first-class margarita and chunky guacamole served in a traditional molcajete (lava rock mortar). Among the inventive entrées are chile-rubbed grilled hanger steak with a wine-cured goat cheese enchilada and slow-cooked pork ribs with chipotle barbecue sauce. There are also such classics as quesadillas and enchiladas. Burnt-orange and blue walls add zest to the attractive main dining room, although it can get a bit crowded. Reservations essential. Subway: 4, 5, 6 to 86th St.