Richard Sandoval, who gave New Yorkers the great Maya uptown, turns his culinary attention to Mexican seafood, and Pampano hit the ground running, immediately attracting a conspicuously international crowd. Bas relief palm trees and fronds decorate the cathedral-high walls. Start with a tart, meaningful Margarita, or choose from about 50 tequilas available by the snifter. An addictive smoked swordfish spread with tomatoes, onion, and cilantro is served with freshly fried tortilla chips, and could well spoil your appetite. Continue with a sampling of three highly complex ceviches, then go Latin American with sautéed pompano with plantain, black rice, garlic, and chile guajillo sauce. Finish with a nice warm corn cake with coconut ice cream and hibiscus sauce. Reservations essential. Subway: 6 to 51st St.-Lexington Ave.