This vast, multilevel restaurant has found a talented, multifaceted chef in Douglas Rodriguez, who more or less led the Nuevo Latino cuisine revolution in America. Brace yourself for the best Mojito in town: muddled mint, lime, and Monte Cristo rum with a splash of bitters, then dive into rainbow ceviche: tuna, fluke, and salmon with white soy, tangy citrus juices, minced red onion, and toasted sesame seeds. Smoked (Spanish) paprika cured pork features crackling skin and unutterably tender flesh. You will feel engulfed by layer after layer of flavors. Reservations essential. Subway: 6 to 51st St.-Lexington Ave.