"Seoul" food at its best is served at this lively, second-floor restaurant. Cook thin slices of ginger-marinated beef (bul go gui) or other meats over red-hot coals; top them with hot chilies, bean paste, and pickled cabbage; and wrap them all up with lettuce for a satisfying meal. Dinner starts with 10 or more delicious types of kimchi, spicy pickles, and other condiments that are almost a meal in themselves. A crisp oyster-and-scallion pancake, sautéed yam noodles, and other traditional dishes are all expertly prepared. The waitstaff speaks little English, but the menu has lots of pictures, so you can just point and smile. Subway: B, D, F, N, Q, R, S, W to 34th St.