The deconstructed industrial design, inexpensive menu, and late-night hours attract a young and stylish crowd to this restaurant in the heart of Little Korea. As soon as you sit down, an aloof waitress will approach your table and snip whole turnip and cabbage kimchi into bite-size pieces. Every item on the very limited menu has a photo to help you order. But all you need to remember to order are oxtail-and-bone-marrow soup -- a subtle, satisfying milky-white bowl of soup with rice noodles and beef that you season at your table with Korean sea salt and chopped scallions -- and mung bean pancakes, made fresh with scallions, and fried until crisp and chewy. Reservations not accepted. Subway: B, D, F, N, R, Q, V, W to 34th St.