A few blocks away from the main drag of Little Korea, this restaurant specializes in tofu (doo-boo in Korean). Myriad varieties of bean curd are made on the premises and then incorporated into a vast array of traditional Korean dishes of varying heat and spice. Anyone who thinks of tofu as a bland, jiggling substance should try doo-boo dong-ka-rang-deng, puffy rounds of tofu filled with shredded vegetables, egg, and ground pork, or cho-dand-gol jung-sik, a three-part dish of soybean paste stew with ground beef, tofu dregs with ground pork, and tofu with steamed rice and basic side dishes. The only drawback is that the staff members don't speak enough English to be of much help. Jacket required. Subway: B, D, F, N, Q, R, S, W to 34th St.