In a minefield of cheap, often inferior, sushi houses gleams tiny Jewel Bako (the Japanese pronunciation of "jewel box"). This is indisputably the best sushi restaurant in the East Village, and seats are hard to come by. The futuristic bamboo tunnel of a dining room is gorgeous, but try to nab a place at the sushi bar and put yourself in the hands of Kazuo Yoshida (his omakase starts at $75). He will serve you only the best fish of the day, perhaps even denying you a request because he feels it's not up to par. And like all precious gems, this one will cost you. Reservations essential. Subway: 6 to Astor Pl.; F, V to 2nd Ave.