The minimalist setting of sheer curtains, sleek black tables, and taupe screens doesn't seem as chic as it once did, nor does the crowd. But that means you can fully concentrate on the cooking of the resourceful Linda Rodriguez and the creative sushi of Hiroshi Nakahara, neither of which have lost their luster. The kitchen does an admirable job with dishes such as lobster tempura with yuzu and tomato dressing, or rib-eye steak with caramelized shallot teriyaki. As for the sushi bar: you won't find a selection of 10 kinds of hamachi or four types of yellowtail in many other restaurant around town. Reservations essential. Subway: 6 to Bleecker St.; F, V to Broadway-Lafayette St.