A dedicated ambassador of authentic Italian cuisine, owner Tony May presides over the dining room of this exercise in alta cucina. Dark wood, terra-cotta floors, leather chairs, and earthy hues set an understated, highly elegant tone. Don't miss chef Odette Fada's signature truffle-butter-dribbled ravioli pocketing a quivering quail egg yolk and creamed spinach filling. Roasted saddle of rabbit is napped with a pecorino romano and garlic sauce and served with haricorts verts. Sea bass poached in zucchini-tomato broth is served on fregola (giant couscous) -- the perfect Mediterranean touch. Reservations essential. Jacket required. Subway: A, B, C, D, 1, 2 to 59th St.-Columbus Circle.