A long list of specials changes daily here, but the menu always includes generously portioned pastas (prepared fresh in the open kitchen), antipasti, salads, entrées, and sandwiches. The gnocchi are as light as little clouds, the pesto sauce is fragrant with basil and garlic, and the veal is always tender. Inexpensive wine is available in carafes or by the bottle. Subway: F, G to Bergen St.