A long list of specials changes daily here, but the menu always includes generously portioned pastas (prepared fresh in the open kitchen), antipasti, salads, entrées, and sandwiches. The gnocchi nearly float above your plate, the pesto sauce is fragrant with basil and garlic, and the veal is endlessly tender. Inexpensive wine is available in carafes or by the bottle. Dinner can cost less than $17 at any one of the four "Pepe" restaurants -- among the best Italian values in the city. Subway: 1, 9 to Christopher St./Sheridan Sq.