A long list of specials changes daily here, but the menu always includes generously portioned pastas (prepared fresh in the open kitchen), antipasti, salads, entrées, and sandwiches. The gnocchi are as fluffy as can be, the pesto sauce is fragrant with basil and garlic, and the veal is feather-tender. Inexpensive wine is available in carafes or by the bottle. Dinner can cost less than $17 at any one of the four "Pepe" restaurants -- one of the best Italian values in the city. Subway: 1, 9 to Houston St.