The crown of a chain of four tiny Italian eateries, this Chelsea branch is the most spacious and charming of the lot. A long list of specials changes daily, but the menu always includes generously portioned pastas (prepared fresh in the open kitchen), antipasti, salads, entrées, and sandwiches. The gnocchi are as light as little clouds, the pesto sauce is fragrant with basil and garlic, and the veal is tender. Inexpensive wine is available in carafes or by the bottle. Considering dinner can cost less than $17, these restaurants may be the best Italian value in the city. Subway: C, E to 23rd St.