Though the name suggests otherwise, the crowd at this rustic-yet-hip restaurant is stylishly urban. Most of Frank DeCarlo's menu is prepared in a bank of wood-burning ovens, from which the heady aroma of garlic and smoke perfumes the room. The ovens also serve as the focal point of the dining room. Don't fill up on the crusty bread and fresh ricotta. Sizzling sardines (crisp on the outside, moist inside) arrive at the table in the terra-cotta pots in which they were baked. Rotisserie lamb is redolent with the scent of fresh herbs. Reservations essential. Subway: 6 to Spring St.