This classic Southern Italian restaurant, on a deserted street in Long Island City, serves up hearty dishes that put it a cut above its family-style counterparts. On weekends the large bar area and three main dining rooms jump with a loyal clientele, who are warmly greeted by the friendly owners and accommodating waitresses. Homemade pastas and basic entrées like veal marsala are good choices, and the menu is complemented by a large, well-chosen wine list with reasonable prices. It's best not to be in any hurry when you dine here. Reservations essential. Subway: 7 to Vernon Blvd./Jackson Ave.