The unabashed clutter of antique kitchen gadgets, vintage tableware, and old pine cabinets harkens back to Il Buco's past as an antiques store. The tables, some of which are communal, are each unique -- the effect is a festive, almost romantic country-house atmosphere. A long menu of Mediterranean tapaslike appetizers lets you try many different dishes such as Angus carpaccio with Umbrian black truffles, and sweet red- and golden-beet raviolis balanced by goat cheese and house-cured pancetta. Chef Jeremy Griffiths uses meats and produce from local farms for the daily entrées such as slow-roasted suckling pig and house-made pastas. Book the inspirational wine cellar for dinner: there are more than 300 varieties down there, and it prompted Edgar Allen Poe to write The Cask of Amontillado. Subway: 6 to Bleecker St.; F, V to Broadway-Lafayette St.