You have to be a magician (il bagatto in Italian) to get a table before 11:30 PM at this hip, inexpensive restaurant, but as the reservationist says in her Italian-accented drawl "you go home, take a shower, relax, everyone else will be tired and drunk, you will come to dinner refreshed and happy." How true, and Il Bagatto is just the kind of restaurant where you want to arrive refreshed -- so as to enjoy its electric ambience, rich Italian food (try the homemade tagliolini with seafood in a light tomato sauce), and fun, rustic decor. It's like being at a party, only the food is better. Reservations essential. Subway: F, V to 2nd Ave.