Rough-hewn gold walls, a fireplace, a garden for summer dining, and a whitewashed open grill with the traditional beehive shape of early Pugliese houses distinguish this Italian winner from its competitors. An out-of-the-ordinary glass of wine from a little-known producer and one of the enticing appetizers -- rabbit pâté with pecorino and prosciutto brioche, or grilled baby octopus with fennel-orange supreme salad -- are a great way to start. Almost all the pasta is handmade by chef Mauro Mafrici and his staff, who also construct superior secondi, such as grilled lamb with fava beans, green peas, and artichokes. Enoteca, a lovely casual wine bar next door, has a simple menu of exquisite food and an impressive selection of wines, available by the glass or in tasting flights. Reservations essential. Subway: 6 to 28th St.