Golden light fills Gonzo's dining room, and fascinating flavors emanate from Vincent Scotto's masterful cooking. Scotto brought grilled pizza to New York, and you must begin with one. They're oblong, and about a foot long -- perfect for two to split. Try pumpkin, with dabs of pumpkin puree, Bel Paese cheese, caramelized onions, and pancetta on a brittle grilled crust. Follow with battered, fried green olives stuffed with pureed mortadella, nutmeg, and rosemary, along with a glorious plate of grilled onions showered with Parmesan shards. For entreés, a robust quail is filled to bursting with chicken, apples, and rosemary and sauced with sweet and sour red grapes. Finish with honey-lemon polenta cake. Loud when there's a crowd, and there usually is. Reservations essential. Subway: A, C, E, F, V to 14th St.