The East Village is packed with cheap-and-chic Italian joints. One that stands out when it comes to food is Gnocco. Owners Pierluigi Palazzo and Rossella Tedesco named the place after a regional specialty (they're from Emilia-Romagna) -- deep-fried dough, sort of like wontons, served with salami and prosciutto. Head to the roomy rear canopied garden for savory salads, house-made pastas (tagliatelle with lamb ragù is a winner), and hearty entrées like sliced beef tenderloin on a bed of arugula (perfect for Atkins addicts). Homesick expats come here for a dose of comfort. Subway: 6 to Astor Pl.