Celebrity chef Tom Valenti and partner Godfrey Polistina created a successful French-American bistro on the Upper West Side, Ouest, but they've done even better with their bustling 'Cesca, a rambling, but acoustically friendly space. Valenti demonstrates a passion and deep understanding for Southern Italian cuisine virtually unmatched in town. Spicy Parmesan fritters are gougères with some real sass, and a soft-boiled egg perfectly partners wood-roasted sardines. Gnocchi with duck confit is heaven and earth on a plate. Buttermilk panna cotta in a low martini glass is topped wtih Campari and a ginger frico. Subway: 1, 2, 3, 9 to 72nd St.