There are a lot of restaurants claiming to be Tuscan in New York, but Cesare Casella's labor of love is one of the few that can honestly wear the mantle. Born to a restaurant family outside Florence, Casella (formerly of Coco Pazzo) presents a large, playful menu of Tuscan specialties, such as farro cooked risotto-style, and clever concoctions, such as semi-boneless quail stuffed with pancetta and sage, roasted and served over Sardinian fregola and roasted red peppers, and "Tuscan-cowboy-style" spareribs. The seasonally changing pastas may be the best part of the satisfying menu. The bright dining room simulates a cheery trattoria. Jacket required. Subway: R, W, 6 to 23rd St.